by jared bibler
Lucky visitors to Reykjavík and downtown-inclined natives know that, at 3 a.m. on a weekend night, the absolute best place to fill your greasy cravings is Iceland’s sandwich mecca, Hlölla Bátar. (English translation is Hlölli’s Boats, since the sub sandwiches purveyed there are referred to as "boats" in the local sub-shop parlance.)
Photo credit: Daquella Manera
My favorite, which I introduced to E and subsequently became her favorite, is the Pinnabátur. This is a foot-long sub on toasted bread, jam-packed with fried, thin-sliced lamb, pickled red cabbage, and special secret Hlölli Sauce. There may be other ingredients that I am now forgetting, but these seem to be the important ones. Oh yeah, grease. That’s the fourth one. Grease that turns the paper wrapping transparent and dribbles down your chin in increasing amounts as you work your way through the warm papered goodness of the sandwich.
Inspired by the greatness of Hlölli, and with some leftover lamb from this weekend’s Sunday dinner, we tried out our own last night. We took some fresh-made big-size hot dog rolls (the closest thing we could find to sub rolls at Nóatún) and toasted them in the top of the oven. Meanwhile, I sliced the lamb wafer-thin and let it pan fry in its own lambic juices. We added some rauðkál (pickled red cabbage: no Icelandic home complete without it) and some fine E. Finnsson Pítusosa ("pita sauce") and boom! We were suddenly kicking the sub up to notches undreamed-of by Emeril Lagasse. I think even Hlölli himself could be proud of our home-kitchen replicas of his fine boat cuisine.
JD Beard
August 26, 2006
The “Pinn” sandwich became a favorite of mine on a recent weeks stay in Reykjavik. By the time I had finished my third in as many days, I was determined to figure out how to make one for myself. In addition to the already mentioned lamb and hlölli sauce, I noticed that the lamb slices were being cut thin from a joint already roasted very rare but with a somewhat crusty exterior, after which they were pan-fried lightly. To re-create the sandwich, I pre-heat my oven to 450, and rub garlic, sea salt, and olive oil into a boneless lamb joint, then give it a light dowsing of balsamic vinegar. I roast the joint for around 20 minutes, just long enough to give it a nice crusty outer layer, while keeping the inside too rare to eat. I then let it sit for a half hour, and slice it thin. I pan fry the slices very lightly, until useable, preserving the rare quality. My sub rolls have been pre-sliced and toasted, and the sauce has been applied. The pickled red cabbage has been heated in a pan, and stands at the ready. After that, it’s all assembly. I make these for my family around once a month. Reykjavik, great party town. Hope to return soon.
jp
January 24, 2007
I hit this spot every time I am in town.
Canal boat holidays
January 14, 2008
I have to go there on a business trip next week. Was looking on internet for a good place to eat. I will definetly check this out.
Engineer
January 17, 2008
You make my stomach dance when it hears about fast food products. I know that they are quite unhealthy, but they are surely tasty. I must visit Reykjavik in the near future.